Make your own free website on Tripod.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                                               

 

 

Crankcases

There are many crankcases available, your original case, a new original case, a clearanced case and race cases, they are all good for what they were built for. If you intend to keep your original case and want anything over 75BHP you should only do this if it is a twin port, that is one whose serial number begins with two alpha characters from AB to AS. They should also have the part number AS21 or AS41 (this is on the side under the pushrod tubes). Apparently the AS21, produced after the AS41, has a greater aluminium to magnesium ratio than the AS41 and therefore handles heat better, although this guy never had any trouble with an AB 1300 case (AS41) up to 180BHP, but he has never used one long term on the road. Gene Berg has done much work looking into the differences and advocates the use of AS21 rather than AS41, but this guy have not found any noticeable difference.
Old or new? A lot of people feel the need to align bore a case just out of habit, but this guy feels this is not really necessary. If you journals are in need of machining, then yes, machine them, otherwise leave well alone. Take the case to a machine shop and ask them. Also get them to check the flywheel thrust face, this will probably not be obvious until you go to set the endfloat and find it is several millimeters instead of just fraction of one. A new case is the best way to go, but on a budget this is not always easy. You can buy reconditioned cases, but personally this guy says no, don't.
Case studs were also changed from about 1975 for 8mm rather than 10mm. The reason for this is that the 10mm studs stretch once heated more than the 8mm, once again this guy never experienced any trouble with the larger studs. One advantage to the 8mm studs is that they already have case saver inserts fitted.
It is possible to obtain case savers, these are stud sleeves, which requires the case being tapped to 12mm or 14mm where the old studs went, then inserting the case savers, then the 8mm or 10mm studs go into them. Be warned, if you plan to open the case up for 94mm cylinders you will experience trouble with the inserts encroaching in the holes, and remember a steel insert will not bore anything like as easily as the mag/alloy case, in fact it will probably destroy the cutting tool.
The next case up is a clearanced case, these have been machined for 90.5/92mm cylinders and the insides have been opened up to accept an 84mm crankshaft. These cases are very good value for money when you consider the cost of a new universal case and then the machining costs. These cases often have the oil gallery bored to allow the insertion of an external oil filter, which is useful and will save a few quid getting it done later (by the way, these are this guys’ favourite choice of case).
Race cases come from the top names, Autocraft, Bugpack, Pauter, Rimco and Scat, but they aren't cheap. Use one only if you feel you really have to, or you're a chap I know who won't buy what will do the job, he has to have the most expensive. They are, however, very strong, sometimes heavier than a standard case, but really not necessary for a road going 150bhp engine. Put the money into something that will make your car go faster, you'll feel better doing that.

 

 

Send mail to eagleeye@searchmalta.com with questions or comments about this web site.
Last modified: February 11, 2007