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Cylinder and piston sets

 

There are only a few choices here, you can go for an 88mm or a 90.5mm, in either a stock or long stroke design. DO NOT EVER USE A SLIP-IN SET as the cylinder wall are too thin to withstand road use for any length of time. For the same reason this guy, along with many others, do not recommend the use of 92mm cylinder sets. These have the same outside diameter as the 90.5mm sets, but obviously have a larger inside diameter, thereby giving a thinner wall. As Dick Nuss would say "Boo 92s". I had a set of 92s which, after only 2 race meetings, had four shiny lines up and down the cylinder and four beautifully untouched lines. This was caused by the cylinder becoming squared to the four head studs and the rings then binding on the walls. Don't let this happen to you as it costs much more and takes longer to strip down a road going engine.
Always use a forged piston if you can and use Teflon Buttons. This comes back to one of my first comments that something sounding good, but you don't know what they are. Teflon Buttons replace the clips that hold in the wrist pins (the bit that hold the piston to the con-rod) and won't come loose like a clip can. They are small mushroom shaped buttons that slide against the cylinder wall and being Teflon don't wear out, supposedly.
One other part to be aware of is total seal piston rings, these have no breaks in them and therefore give better compression. This guy never used them and so can give no comment on their ability, longevity and cost.
Here is the calculation for CC, Bore X Bore X Stroke X 0.0031416.

 

 

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Last modified: February 11, 2007